Daniel Swain PhD of the University of California is one of my favorite explainers of Atmospheric physics.
I excerpted 4 minutes above from his invaluable “Office Hours” YouTube of October 13. You can view the whole thing here.
TLDR – it’s going to keep getting worse, and is already spreading up the coast, as local reports confirm. Pacific Coast Highway threatened by pounding surf..
Below, the view from inside an Amtrak train on the coast getting sloshed with a wave.